There are not many fancy and well-thought-of french restaurants in Los Angeles. There’s Lucques on Melrose,  there’s Melisse in Santa Monica,  Providence in Hancock Park and Bouchon in Beverly Hills.  The boy had the good fortune to go to Lucques recently for a work lunch and grabbed the burger - a juicy, bready feast that only a frenchman could love.

Now, it’s a good burger.  It’s about as meaty as you could want.  About half a pound of meat, the kind that makes you long for the old 8oz burger on Melrose.  But if suffers from that overly fancy brioche bun that fancy burgers often deal with - it’s too soft, too yeasty, too sweet, too dominant.

At $18 we expect a lot more from a burger. And it sort of reinvigorates our opinion that chefs who make fancy food can’t really make excellent burgers.  It is another reminder that burgers are an artform all of their own, apart from cuisine, and thus the driving force of our quest.  

The Scores:

Meatiness: 5
Succulentiousness: 4
Bun: 2
Flavor: 3
Stay-togetherness: 3
Joint: 3

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